I knew I needed to make a muslin for the bodice of the dress and was very happy I did. There were several changes that I made during the first muslin fitting. Working from the top down like I learned in Sew the Perfect Fit class on Craftsy, I started on the shoulders. The front was too long and the bust darts were misplaced. I took in the shoulder seams with a 3/4" seam allowance instead of 5/8" which pulled the bodice up. Now that the bust darts were in the proper location but the neckline was too high. I cut a new neckline, then I moved onto the back. The back was too small and the side seams were pulling forward. Since the back had four darts. I removed the second back darts and kept the main one but took it out 1/4 " and graded the side seam allowance from 1/2' to 3/4' in the hips where she had too much fabric. We positioned a make shift skirt with a petticoat to decided where to place the skirt on the hips.
and the back, there is still some pulling so I will take out a little more in the seam allowance.
She wanted the sleeve to be just a simple cap sleeve which eliminated the need for a gusset as the pattern suggests. The skirt was drafted this summer when I completed the Retro Skirted playsuit. It was easy to cut and sew together with minimal changes. I needed to add a back zipper instead of a side one. Gertie's book explains how to do this very well and it was easy to follow the instructions, cut out and sew the skirt.
When the skirt was attached to the bodice of the dress we did a fitting and it didn't look right. The skirt needed to come down a little lower, we had over planned for my daughter's short torso.
Since it was clear that I would not make the deadline for December The Monthly Stitch Challenge like I had intended, I took a break from the dress. With all of the water issues and the mister with a Man Cold, I didn't pick it up again until this week. I unpicked the skirt and moved it down 1/2 inch and did another fitting. This time it was right. I then worked on the hand picked lapper zip and adding seam tape to finish the inside.
|I used Hug Snug seam binding to tidy the inside and pinked the side seams.|
The only complaint is that she would like the skirt to be fuller and with the heaviness of the wool crepe she would need a stiffer tulle petticoat to achieve that look. I plan to sew a dropped waist petticoat slip like this one I purchased on Etsy. I plan to do the full slip version since the bodice is only underlined with silk organza .