Saturday, February 1, 2014

GNBBS: The "Think Pink" Dress


The Think Pink Dress was inspired from the movie Funny Face and the Gerties New Book for Better Sewing dropped waist cocktail dress, a variation of the wiggle dress pattern. I started it back in early December and first posted  here.


I knew I needed to make a muslin for the bodice of the dress and was very happy I did. There were several changes that I made during the first muslin fitting. Working from the top down like I learned in Sew the Perfect Fit class on Craftsy, I started on the shoulders. The front was too long and the bust darts were misplaced. I took in the shoulder seams with a 3/4" seam allowance instead of 5/8" which pulled the bodice up. Now that the bust darts were in the proper location but the neckline was too high. I cut a new neckline, then I moved onto the back. The back was too small and the side seams were pulling forward. Since the back had four darts. I removed the second back darts and kept the main one but took  it out 1/4 " and graded the side seam allowance from 1/2' to 3/4' in the hips where she had too much fabric. We positioned a make shift skirt with a petticoat to decided where to place the skirt on the hips.
                                                Here is the front before we worked the sleeves.
and the back, there is still some pulling so I will take out a little more in the seam allowance.

She wanted the sleeve to be just a simple cap sleeve which eliminated the need for a gusset as the pattern suggests. The skirt was drafted this summer when I completed the  Retro Skirted playsuit. It was easy to cut and sew together with minimal changes. I needed to add a back zipper instead of a side one. Gertie's book explains how to do this very well and it was easy to follow the instructions, cut out and sew the skirt. 
When the skirt was attached to the bodice of the dress we did a fitting and it didn't look right. The skirt needed to come down a little lower, we had over planned for my daughter's short torso. 
Since it was clear that I would not make the deadline for December The Monthly Stitch Challenge like I had intended, I took a break from the dress. With all of the water issues and the mister with a Man Cold, I didn't pick it up again until this week. I unpicked the skirt and moved it down 1/2 inch and did another fitting. This time it was right. I then worked on the hand picked lapper zip and adding seam tape to finish the inside.
I used Hug Snug seam binding to tidy the inside and pinked the side seams.

                       


 Can you tell I was tired of hand stitching, my lapped sipper is not perfect.

The only complaint is that she would like the skirt to be fuller and with the heaviness of the wool crepe she would need a stiffer tulle petticoat to achieve that look. I plan to sew a dropped waist petticoat slip like this one I purchased on Etsy. I plan to do the full slip version since the bodice is only underlined with silk organza .
Etsy

I am glad this dress is complete and mostly pleased with the results. I know it will be worn often and become a new favorite for my vintage styled daughter. Next up for GNBBS Projects : The High Waisted Circle Skirt Pattern. 

9 comments:

  1. Beautiful! You really did a great job and it looks wonderful on you - congratulations!

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  2. Beautiful job on the fit, hope she doesn't grow out of it for a long time!

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    1. We left a little adjust room in the hem and a little ease in the bodice. Hopefully she is done growing.

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  3. Your daughter is so lovely! And, great job on the dress. It's interesting that it has princess seams and darts in the front!

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    1. Yes, I do not know if it would look good in a print..too much going on with the seams and the dart. The back had two darts but I eliminated one of them.

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  4. When I was about 10 my mother made me an almost identical dress. I loved it!

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    1. She wore it to school yesterday and then to the dance later that night. I think it will be well worn.

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  5. I really adore this dress and your daughter styled it perfectly. I never really considered a drop waist because I felt like there's no waist definition, but this dress is not the case at all. I think I have to try to make this one as well.

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