I planned this skirt when I was making the Sultry Sheath from last month. When I was planning for fall and reviewing the book I new I wanted to make this skirt and since the muslin was stitched up for the bottom half of my sultry sheath.
It has been my goal to improve my sewing and learn new skills with most of my projects and with this one I will learn the following:
1. Boning in the waistband.
2. Bound Buttonholes, since there is only one I thought this would be a good one to practice with.
The other skills listed I have already accomplished but will get more practice: darts and a lapped zipper I have learned while sewing the Retro-Inspired skirted playsuit and the Sultry Sheath
I had purchased 1 1/2 yards of this wool herringbone fabric from Fabric.com on a closeout sale years ago and had the lining in my stash.
I do not have much difference in my waist to hip ratio so I picked the size 4 using my waist measurements and graded it down to a 2 in the side seams from the hips down.
I followed along up until Step 5 with my side seams basted and did a fitting, like the book recommends. I also notice that with many of my vintage patterns the recommendation to baste your seams and do a fitting before sewing them permanently. Whenever I read about vintage techniques either sewing or cooking I feel that we have become lazy and more interested in doing something fast and less about quality.
During my fitting I felt like the slit was a little high so I extended the back seam down 1 1/2 inch past the final mark for the slit.
After putting in the final seams for the skirt I was on to the waistband, I decided I wanted to do the high waist with the boning and following the instructions I gathered my supplies. The list suggested hair canvas, silk organza and either Rigilene or steel boning. Hair Canvas? I had a mental image of this...YIKES!
This had me curious about Why it was called hair canvas? In my research I discovered that the interfacing does contain a small amount of horse hair, and is commonly used for tailoring.
I am short in the torso and was worried the waistband would rest right below my bust line, so shortened it 1/2 inch.
My Bound Button hole was a flop. I practiced and it was turning out poorly so I gave up for this time and did a quick machine buttonhole..which also isn't done very well. Normally when things start to go south and I have been sewing for a while I know it is time to stop and step away from my project., at this point all I had to complete was sewing on the button, so I finished it up.
|Side seams a little off but I am going to leave it.|
I paired it with a blouse that I recently sewed from the same book, more on the blouse later.