Wednesday, September 4, 2013

Sew the Perfect Fit: Lesson 9 Gussets

I had intended on taking this lesson last week but life was busy and we took a long weekend trip to California. The nice thing about the Craftsy format is you can adjust your class schedule to fit your needs.
After taking photos then dropping of the teenagers for the first day of school, I also went back to school. 
I have completed Lesson 9: Armholes from the  Sew The Perfect Fit class that I am taking on Craftsy taught by Lynda Maynard.
In this lesson Lynda explains that because we wear fabric with lycra which allows us to have a nice high tight fitting armhole with out adding gussets. 
If you had mentioned this to me last year I would have said "What is a gusset?" In the last year of sewing I have been dabbling in vintage pattern sewing for my daughter and some for myself and discovered the "gusset"
My first attempt was Simplicity 2127.

              Here is the only photo I have of me wearing the shirt.

             The arm Gusset was easier than I thought to construct.

Lynda explains how to make a high tight armhole in a woven garment. She has each person check for freedom of movement to be sure the sleeve is comfortable. The version she teaches is the Cut-on-Gusset. 
All of the alterations are done on the paper pattern then tried out on the muslin. After watching, re-watching and re-watching I ended up with this below.

What a mess! I started dating the new lines so I could keep track of which ones are the most current.

Lynda recommend that you reprint and clean up the pattern after all the marks from the different alterations that changed the stitch lines and seam lines.
At the end of the lesson Lynda says that adding gussets this way is "A little bit challenging to sew but well worth the effort".
I was disappointed that the lesson ends with out showing the gusset sewn together. Lynda suggest that you should refit your muslin with the gusset so that the right amount of fabric has been added. I plan to make a new muslin with the added gusset fabric to the bodice, and sleeves. I will do this after I do the final lesson 10:Truing the Pattern.

Amy from Sew Well has completed the course also and posted on armholes 
and Lesson 10: truing up the pattern. She is expecting  her first child and has had to postpone sewing and fitting the muslin on herself. 

Here is one of my classmates, Missy and her completed garment. Look at the great fit and the Seattle sunshine. 

                                                              Missy's Craft Journal

In my research I  found more information about Gusset construction on
Gertie's New Blog for Better Sewing. Next week I will complete the course and hopefully have a Perfect Fit for my dress.


  1. I definitely want to give the gusset a try when I do another set in sleeve! It was pretty dramatic, but still really cool. And thanks for the link back :D

  2. It looks really interesting. Looking forward to seeing your finished gusset.

  3. I'm excited to read that you tackled the gusset. I can't wait to try this method out when I get back to sewing woven garments. I've been swimming in knits lately!