Wednesday, September 11, 2013

Sew the Perfect Fit: Lesson 10 Truing the Pattern


I watched my final lesson from the Craftsy class Sew the Perfect Fit.  In the final class, Lynda shows the basted together completed muslins for two of the models that were used during the series of lessons. She views them closely checking to see if the darts line up on the bodice and the skirt, the side seams are not pulling and the general fit. She recommends you revisit this before you clean up your paper pattern and do another muslin.
Then she demonstrates how to rectify the pattern measuring the armhole on the bodice and the armscye or top of the sleeve to be sure that it will fit properly. When the she ends up with a difference of 5/8" instead of 3/4", she solves the discrepancy by taking some fabric from the dart in the sleeve. 
I measured my patterns and had exactly 3/4". Woo Hoo !! 
She continues with the next model lining up the darts. She completed the course empathizing the importance of making a second muslin and adjust for style changes that personalize your garment. The only part of this class I found disappointing was the fact we didn't get to see one of the gussets completed.
I made another muslin with the gusset alterations added. I am going to warn you ahead that it looks a little crazy as I ran out of traditional muslin and was in the zone so kept going with some cotton remnants that I had. It turned out to be a colorful muslin. The left side (grey) is the new and improved sleeve with the Cut-on-gusset added.

I am pretty pleased with the fit at this point. The bust darts need to be taken in a little more, but that is a simple alteration.

 Side Seams match up


 I am pretty pleased with my sleeves and shoulder seams. I learned a few new tricks that I will apply the Shirtwaist Dress that I was struggling with. 




The gusset worked and looks much better than I imagined...I can raise my arms with comfort. In my previous blog post about Lesson 9: Gussets I discussed the gussets in my vintage patterns. I like the look of this one much more, less emphasis on the armpit.
I highly recommend this class to anyone who sews garments I have learned many new skills and have a greater understanding of how to check the fit of a garment. The pattern is Vogue 8766.
I am still undecided about fabric or design details for this pattern. I find it hard to think about sleeves due to the hot summer weather we are still having in Seattle. 

4 comments:

  1. Woohoo! Congrats on finishing the class. And, the range of motion you've gotten from the gusset looks pretty spectacular!

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  2. Aww yeah! Very nice with the sleeve gusset! :D And way-to-go being resourceful for your muslin fabric :P

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  3. Yay! Thanks for the gusset view :)

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  4. I couldn't even see the gusset, great work! Once you have the pattern, it will be so worth all the fitting. Can't wait to see the dress.

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